Button, buttonhole and so on, these little elements are decisive in the choice of my shirts. Because there is no point having a beautiful fabric fray if buttonholes and buttons dull, broken or décousent. First, I look at the button throat. It’s the one on the left side of the front of the shirt and receives the button holes-the holes where we just drag the buttons. There are three types of grooves: the US, the simple and hidden.
- On a dress shirt, I highly recommend to choose a simple throat without stitching which gives a neat finish and comes not hinder the eye behind a tie.
- On a casual shirt, such as denim shirt I prefer the Societypically which provides additional visual details-with a nice pocket.
The hidden gorge can be used on a dress shirt to give a cleaner look and a casual shirt to give a touch of originality.
Apparent or hidden, watch out for this part of the garment. It is often indicative of the quality of a room. Neat buttonholes are a big plus because they retain their rigidity over time and does not effilocheront. Remember that this is a very stressed part on a shirt especially in terms of torsion and in the many-buttoned déboutonnages.
In an ideal world, all buttons are made in a nice thick nacre! In reality, the buttons are usually plastic and ready-to-wear brands that try nacre often choose too thin buttons. In the end, it is better a thick plastic button (below on a shirt The French Tailor) too fine a pearl button. This may break quickly or age badly. We find buttons thick nacre on high-end shirts, which guarantee resistance and unsurpassed durability. Attention dry cleaning is not recommended on mother of pearl buttons true.
Finally, I control how the buttons are sewn. There are three ways to sew a button. The first (1) is to sew two parallel rows s is quite simple and machines can do. The second (2) sewing cross (“croce”), fairly simple to achieve with a machine. The third (3) is a typical Italian technical impossible to achieve with a machine, called “zampa di gallina” (chicken leg) or “Giglio di Firenze” and form a kind of arrow.
Make sure the seam is very dense and the button does not move at the time of purchase. If it seems fragile store is that it will resist probably not long and this demonstrates the lack of care taken in the making of this shirt.