Next step, the armhole is the center of my attention. In general, the sleeve seam (below the long arm) is an extension of the seam which joined the pan back and front of the jacket (on the side). This alignment is made in a confection of simplicity. However, some tailors have noticed that armhole seam which would be shifted forward avoided too superimpose layers of cloth, and enhance the ease and ironing. This is why we find this type of seam offset some shirts customized upscale. However, do not expect to find an armhole shifted on a shirt in ready-to-wear, it’s a detail too technical.
Even further into details, I check how the shirt is sewn at the armhole, sleeve and front and rear panels of the shirt. The ideal is to have dense stitches sewn and inconspicuous in English points. We find mostly two types of seams: double stitching and sewing the folded English .
- The double stitching is an identifiable soundly in its two parallel son. It is common and does not contribute to the construction of the shirt.
- English seam is the one for you. To recognize it, just find a small tissue bulge on the back (right in the photo below on a shirt The French Tailor I wear for several months) and a sewing one thread on the spot (left in the photo below on my shirt the French Tailor ). This technique is more complex than the double stitching and provides a finer and discreet results.
Remember that the goal is to see fewer seams and manufacturing details on the outside of the garment. Feel free to compare and ask store to get to identify these seams.
The alignment of motifs
The shoulder is an area where I carefully control the alignment of stripes and weft of fabric: a shirt made with care is primarily a carefully chosen fabric. But a fabric is also a frame and sometimes patterns. A quality shirt is distinguished by the way these motifs – mainly scratches (right) or the frame (left)-are aligned between different pieces of fabric. This is the case at the armhole where the stripes of the sleeve should follow that of the top of the shoulder (as in these photos. To the left below on a shirt The French Tailor and right on a shirt Hast ). This detail will not improve comfort but it is a little more aesthetic easily identifiable. And it’s a matter of principle! Remember that the bulk is in the details.
The cuff (or wrist)
After armhole, I go straight to the “Finistère” of the shirt, the end of the end of the round, I named the cuff! There are three types of headlines according to the shirt guide by carswers:
- The simple cuff with rounded corners, square or broken.
- The folded cuff called “musketeer” which closes with cufflinks.
- Neapolitan cuff, between simple and folded.
Some will swear by the cuffs folded back to very elegant, but I think for a dress shirt can be worn simple or folded cuffs, provided they are wide and rigid, especially to the right length. Musketeer or classic, it’s as you wish, but be guided by good taste and flee headlines to 4 square buttons! Headlines such as collar, should not be heat sealed to prevent them eloquent (the control procedure is the same as for the collar).
The cuff gets all the fabric that comes from the handle width and, depending on the cut of the sleeves, it remains more or less fabric sewing with the news. So I make sure that the cuff is sewn with at least 2 or 3 ply make sure the handle is not too “puffy”. In addition, a sewn cuff with 3 folds will be easier to iron . These 3 layers must be strictly symmetrical between the two sleeves and find exactly the same place.