In sorting my wardrobe, I was able to realize the importance of the shirts in my style. They are a mainstay of my look. It is true that I wear little shirt. It’s probably because I love the practical side of the shirt, which unlike the t-shirt is not a static garment. Buttoned, unbuttoned and sleeves rolled up, the shirt can adapt. More than ever, it is still a centerpiece of the male wardrobe, a vital need to choose carefully!
“Elegance is concentrated in the shirt” also said Oscar Wilde, poet and connoisseur of the male wardrobe. To help you choose a good shirt, I invite you to discover, step by step, the points I check when I’m about to buy a shirt. The most curious readers will be satisfied because I have decided to make this article a practical guide of the shirt . Attention exhaustive reading, but so exciting!
“We judge a shirt to his neck and a man in his shirt” Madeleine Ferron, Le Baron scarlet. The first thing I look at is the neck. There are a multitude of collars (English, Italian, club, American, etc.) but it is difficult to classify because we can find different names for the same collar depending on the shop, the tailor or the time! Do not be surprised to find the passes “button down club”, “semi-cutaway” or “far-cutaway” less conventional. Here an illustrated list of basic passes.
A. Collars for dress shirt
- The Italian or cutaway collar: A very open to very legs spread collar (sic) point backwards. This is a very chic and modern style, popular with Italian and that lends itself perfectly to big tie knots (incidentally, I never wear a shirt with a spread collar without a tie). This is my favorite neck and I mainly door with a suit.
- The French collar: the alpha pass. This is a standard neck model which yields consistent proportions. It can be worn with everything and in all circumstances. It is a perfect neck for those who do not want to take risks. I wear it with or without a tie.
- The Neapolitan Pass: You’ll recognize its large sections with a foot high collar (neck Foot: piece of cloth on which is sewing the cervix). It has the characteristic of good out of the jacket and ride high on the neck. I only recommend a dress shirt, and for people whose neck is small. I wear it with a big bow tie and exclusively with a suit. Bellisimo!
- English collar: A very formal look for the pass which has a fastening lug behind the bow tie that can hold both ends of the neck. One type of chic collar that I find very formal.
- The collar buttoned placket: It has a small invisible button under each leg of the cervix that can securely hold the legs along the body. A very chic collar locatable through the cracks created on the legs. I’ve never tried this pass. A test soon!
B. Passes for Casual Shirt
- American collar or button down: It is recognizable from afar with buttonholes at the end of each leg of the neck that attach to the front hem of the white shirt. Often we cross this pass because of the popularity of the oxford shirt .
- The round or “club collar” collar: A sort of Peter Pan collar for men! It is a small neck to look very retro whose paws are rounded. I do not wear this type of collar because I think it does not suit my body type. It also may be a bit too feminine for my taste.
- Col Officer: A little short neck without flap that has a button. I’ve never focused on my shirts. This is a special but very chic collar.
- Mao collar: He has neither foot nor flap. It was only a foot collarless button-what differentiates it from the collar.